21 May, 2015

19 May, 2015

Is fashion bored of the typical?

Written by Amy Jackson

As a growing adolescent, I used to admire, even idolise the models I saw on the front cover of fashion magazines. Fashion has always fixated on a certain type of beauty. If I asked you to picture a supermodel walking the catwalk, it's likely you'd envision a tall, slim, young female, with symmetrical features and porcelain skin. Today, however, if a young girl takes a glimpse through the latest issue of Vogue, or catches up with the new collections at fashion week, there's a possibility that she will see a different, more diverse expression of beauty. With more and more cases of models of different sizes, races, ages and with a range of abilities; you can't help but wonder, is fashion bored of the typical? 


- Chantelle Winnie for i-D Magazine -
 
As Coco Chanel said, "In order to be irreplaceable one must always be different". As of 2015, Fashion is definitely embracing the different. Vitiligo sufferer Chantelle Winnie has had a big career break, modelling for brands such as Diesel, and black models Jourdan Dunn and Joan Smalls are ranked some of the highest earning models of the past year. After a long history of racial discrimination on the runway, this is a big step in the right direction, and whilst many aspects of the industry are still plagued by racism, this is a sign that things are changing. However, is this introduction of diversity in fashion something that will last, or is it just another trend, a fad that will be discarded until it next becomes 'relevant'? 

Dolce & Gabbana challenged age stereotypes in their latest campaign, featuring elderly Italian women, surrounded by their younger counterparts. Whilst Dolce & Gabbana are certainly including an aspect of diversity in their ad, the older women's inclusion in the photos seems to hold a more light-hearted, comical purpose. The women aren't styled in a glamorous way, unlike the models surrounding them, and the ad's don't give the impression that these women are fashionable or representative of the clothing. Céline is another brand that's dived onto the silver-haired bandwagon, whose most recent Ad Campaign features legendary author Joan Didion, shot by Juergen Teller. The difference between the two Campaigns, is that Céline has chosen to represent the older woman in a stronger light. Didion, the influential female figure that she is, looks effortlessly cool as the face of the brand, making every other Ad in the magazine featuring Karlie Kloss or Cara Delevigne seem quite lame in comparison. 

- Joan Didion for Céline accessories campaign -
 
If diversity is a trend, then its biggest follower of 2015 is New York fashion week. We saw impressive casting at the highly anticipated debut of Kanye West x Adidas, with a refreshing medley of body types and races. Whilst at FTL Moda and Carrie Hammer, we witnessed a fashion revelation, as models with varying abilities rocked the catwalk. Down-syndrome model Jamie Brewer walked for Carrie Hammer, and disabled models represented FTL Moda. The aim of a fashion show is to showcase your designs in a creative, eye-catching way, gaining publicity for your brand. This ultimately leads to the conclusion that yes, perhaps diversity is a trend that those in the industry are latching onto to get noticed. If this is the case, then who are we to complain? The power of trends is huge, just look at the miniskirt; way over a decade ago and still going strong. There is hope that diversity will join the miniskirt as a fashion statement that stands the test of time, but we need to help it thrive. We are all the voices of our generation, and if we continue to promote a diverse image, we can abolish the 'typical' for good. And above all else, the young girls noticing these models can realise that no matter their skin colour, height, weight or range of abilities; everybody can fit perfectly into the world of fashion.

18 May, 2015

Inspiration #12


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#1Model Magdalena Jasek photographed by Maurizio Bavutti featured in February 2015 issue of Harper’s Bazaar China. // #2 Model Nadja Bender featured in Chanel: The Now Grand Couture Story editorial published in Vogue Italia September 2014 issue, photographed by Yelena Yemchuk. // #3 Model Ella Midenge photographed by Dan Beleiu for September 2014 issue of ELLE Romania, styled by Domnica Margescu and Maurice Munteanu.

Images sourced from A Stairway to Fashion and Fashion Editorials.

16 May, 2015

Savage Beauty: Illustrations

In celebration of the Savage Beauty exhibition at V&A Museum in London, Natasza Cetner, our illustrator, re-created few of Alexander McQueen design pieces on paper, basing her work on photographs featured in the official exhibition book. 

15 May, 2015

Vans x & Other Stories collaboration


Written by Tskenya-Sarah Fraser, accompanied by & Other Stories lookbook photographs sources from Wonderland Magazine

The new Vans x & Other Stories collaboration is an unlikely one, but is executed to such a high quality that it puts all the doubters to shame. 

& Other Stories graced London's Regent Street in March 2013 and hasn’t looked back since, providing women a range of shoes, bags, accessories, beauty and ready-to-wear items - pushing for women to create their own stories through their clothing. Vans, as one of the most popular shoe brands in the world, is providing its wearers with shoes and apparel that emulate the Cypress, California style. 

The Vans x & Other Stories collaboration is a well executed mix of subversive chic with a hint of California girl, whilst using age inclusive editorial to prove to its consumers that style has no age limit. By placing two women who are clearly very different ages next to each other Vans x & Other Stories allows us to re-imagine what it means to be stylish. 

13 May, 2015

08 May, 2015

Savage Beauty: Celebrating Alexander McQueen


Savage Beauty exhibition review written by Amy Jackson, with accompanying photograph by Anton Corbijn
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What comes to mind when you think of the name Alexander McQueen? Do you remember beautifully crafted Avant Garde garments made from feathers, hair or carved seashells? Iconic runway shows featuring spray painting robots, an insane asylum held inside a mirrored glass container, or Kate Moss in hologram form? Or is it simply the memory of a skilled designer who had one of the biggest influences of fashion history, and the most iconic name to be associated with the London Fashion scene? 

Savage Beauty, held at London's Victoria & Albert Museum, is the first and largest exhibition showcasing McQueen's work to be held in Europe, following the success of the original version held at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. The exhibition provides the chance to get a close look at some of McQueen's masterpieces, as well as taking a journey through the different turning points of his career in Fashion. 

Upon entering the first room of the exhibition, I was immediately captivated by a huge screen displaying slow motion, black and white imagery of McQueen's runway shows, paired with intense music and dialogue spoken by the designer himself. The room has a distinctly melancholy feel as you reminisce on the tragic death of McQueen, who took his own life in 2010. Deeply dark and moving throughout, the exhibition serves as a perfect way to remember the influence the designer made on the world, with each room representing a different stage in his career. 

"I want to be the purveyor of a certain silhouette or a way of cutting, so that when I'm dead and gone people will know that the twenty-first century was started by Alexander McQueen." - Alexander McQueen. 

Approaching each magnificent garment, you couldn't help notice the remarks made by other visitors of the exhibition. Sounds of astonishment were heard by a mixture of people; young fashion fixated students, middle aged couples and even families gathered round to admire the artistry of the designer, showing the impact McQueen had on the world. 

Each room was successful at creating a distinctive atmosphere, through details such as walls that resemble caves made of bones, in which mannequins dressed in his A/W 2000 collection 'Eshu' surrounded the room. Perhaps the most magnificent room of the exhibition is titled 'Cabinet of curiosities'. Shelves featuring some of McQueen's most memorable pieces; the armadillo shoe worn by Lady Gaga, and the coveted butterfly headpiece from his S/S 2008 collection, adorn the walls along with small screens showing some of the designers best catwalk moments. In the center of the room is a recreation of the iconic moment from the S/S 1999 show, where model Shalom Harlow served as a human canvas, in a plain dress which was spray painted splashes of colour by mechanical robots. As you admire the visual feast the room has to offer, the sound of the theme song from Roman Polanski's film 'Rosemary's baby' adds to the eery feel, especially when catching glimpses of his S/S 1997 runway show 'La Poupee', in which model Debra Shaw wore a piece of specially made 'contortion' jewellery that caused her to walk in a distorted, mechanical way. Throughout his career, McQueen was renowned for his use of shock tactics and controversy. The exhibition however, although we do get an insight into some of his most controversial work, leaves viewers with less of a 'shock' reaction, more a feeling of awe and amazement at McQueen's talent and imaginative work. 

Whether you're a fan of McQueen and wish to learn more about the designers work, interested in fashion and need some inspiration, or just wish to visit a visually stimulating, thought-provoking exhibition; Savage Beauty is a must see! 

Fashion should be a form of escapism, and not a form of imprisonment.” 
 - Alexander McQueen.

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Savage Beauty exhibition currently held at V&A Museum in London is open between 14th March and 2nd August, tickets available online and at the door.

07 May, 2015

STREET-STYLE: Killarney, Ireland

Erika, Fashion Blogger, photographed on the streets of Killarney, Ireland by Dominika Wojciechowska. Wearing: iClothing skirt, jacket, and bag // Zara top // Topshop boots // Warehouse sunglasses.