21 April, 2015

Mariana Jungmann: interview & AW15 catwalk collection

Mariana Jungmann AW15 Collection - review, written by Tskenya-Sarah Fraser //
Catwalk images sourced from Mariana Jungmann's website.

The AW15 collection by Mariana Jungmann was a beautiful mix of mohair, lace and imprinted leather. I was certainly ashamed that I had not heard of Jungmann’s work before visiting her runway show during Fashion Week, as her vision and attention to detail is evident in each catwalk item. Jungmann started brainstorming and working on her collection in 2011, firstly establishing the brand in Sao Paulo, Brazil. By 2013, she had reached out to a European market, trademarking the brand for it’s handmade lace and exquisite materials to create unique luxury garments.

The collection was feminine and classy, with a rich mix of outfits that ranged from the everyday to banquet style. I think it is this variety, as well as high quality that makes Mariana Jungmann’s collection so successful. 

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Fashion Philosophy's  Co-Editor, Tskenya-Sarah Fraser, sits down with fashion designer Mariana Jungmann. After a storming AW15 runway show our team was curious…

Tskenya-Sarah Fraser: Tell me a little bit about yourself: where you grew up and what past times you have.
Mariana Jungman: I am originally from Goiania, a city in the middle of Brazil. I’ve lived there most of my childhood. After I became an adult I decided to explore the world, moved to America for a while, than got back to Brazil, to Sao Paulo this time. There was where I’ve done my BA in Fashion and finally I’ve moved to London where I live now. I am a very energetic person, I need to keep myself active so I love going to the gym and doing some weightlifting or going snowboarding when I can.

TSF: Do you think your culture influences your designs?
I think as a person you are a conglomerate of your experiences in life, it doesn’t matter what profession you have, those experiences will always be part of you and manifest themselves in some ways and your culture plays  a major part on your experiences. So as a designer my culture influences me, so much so that I work with a type of hand made lace that is traditional in Brazil. I design it in London and it is all made by hand in my country.

TSF: How did you get into fashion?
MJ: I’ve always loved fashion. It might sound a bit of a cliche, but I did. I’ve always liked seeing how different people dress, how clothes makes you feel, the sense of self-assurance you get from the way you dress yourself and the different types of messages you can put out there a compilation of garments. That was what drove me to fashion, this possibility of telling stories and bringing different feelings to different people.

TSF: I love the way you use lace and leather, what inspired you to use those materials? 
MJ: As a women we are full of paradoxes and I love exploring them. That was how a chose to work with lace and leather: one so feminine and delicate the other one so masculine and powerful. I’ve decided to play with that, so I make the leather look like lace (by laser cutting it). This season I wanted almost to merge the leather and the lace so we came up with the technique that looks like I pressed the lace on top of the leather until the leather blisters, almost hugging the lace.

TSF: How would you describe your brand in ONE word?
MJ: Femininepowerfulcosmopolitan does that count as one word?

TSF: What is the biggest hurdle you have faced as a fashion designer?
MJ: Everyday is a different hurdle. I am not only a fashion designer I run a business, I deal with people, employees, suppliers, models, photographers etc, so different things are happening around me all the time. It is a hurdle but I love it.

TSF: What advice do you have for aspiring fashion designers?
MJ: Be true to yourself, don’t try to make things just because you think it will attract attention. Be resilient and curious.

20 April, 2015

Inspiration Monday #10

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#1 Editorial featured in the latest issue of Paper Magazine. Model Nora from Muse Management photographed by JUCO team around Salvation Mountain, styled by Shirley Kurata. // #2 Model Lara Stone photographed by Peter Lindbergh for Interview Magazine's March 2015 issue, styled by Ludivine Poiblanc. // #3 Kasia Struss in a beauty cover editorial featured in March 2015 issue of S Moda Magazine, photographed by David Roemer.

Image and information source: Fashion Gone Rogue

07 March, 2015

Illustration piece - Simone Rocha SS15

First submission from one of our new illustrators, Megan Wynne. The piece was inspired by Simone Rocha's Spring/Summer 2015 collection and our earlier post about the designer, "One to Watch - Simone Rocha AW15" written by Amy Jackson.

02 March, 2015

Week #9 Inspirations

Model Athena Wilson in American Beauty editorial featured in March issue of Harper's Bazaar Germany. Photographed by Nagi Sakai, and inspired by former Harper's Bazaar editor, Diane Vreeland.

Actress Dakota Fanning featured in a S/S'15 issue of Vs. Magazine, photographed by Vincent Peters.

All images sourced via Fashion Gone Rogue.

28 February, 2015

Equality - dawn of a new era

Illustration and words by Jessica Holden,
updated version of University Project.

In my last semester at University we were to pick our own briefs and projects. When I was in the library I came across old copies of Vogue Magazine from the 60's and 70's and I just fell in love! The photographs where so stunning and the clothing was beautiful. So I decided to do an editorial illustration from an article in one of these editions. I wanted to illustrate an important issue as it would give me more of a focus, so I started to look for articles surrounding women's rights as I knew it was relevant to the time. 

In a 1975 edition of Vogue UK I found an article where the sex discrimination bill was just being brought into action. Baroness Betty Lockwood is mentioned in the article as she states, "my job is to remove discrimination against women". After reading the article, I found her to be very inspiring. One quote from the article which really shocked me was about a women who wasn't able to open a shop account without having a male guarantor. It really highlighted the inequality and how women where treated at that moment in time. 

"She was asked to produce a male guarantor before she could open a shop account!"

In my final illustration piece, I wanted to focus on the dawn of a new era as working women were on the rise. The protest boards highlight strikes which happened around this time, such as the Sewing Machinist strike in 1968 in Dagenham. I think a key element for this illustration was the use of type, as it shows the inequality that was a major issue.

25 February, 2015

LFW street style - part I

Part I of selected London Fashion Week street style photographs taken by Dominika Wojciechowska during AW15 collection season. // Somerset House, February 2015.

23 February, 2015

Mr. Leroni

Our Editor, Tskenya-Sarah Fraser, sits down to interview a young fashion designer, Mr. Leroni, about his inspiration, choice not to study fashion and future aims.

Tskenya-Sarah Fraser: Tell me about where you get the inspiration for your style. 
Mr. Leroni: The inspiration for my work comes from so many different places. It’s really hard to identify the things that inspire me as they change from day to day. I usually design things from scratch, recycling anything that I have lying around or that I find in the street. I get inspiration from the most random things sometimes, but I love finding something that to most people would just be a piece of junk and imagining what I could do with it. It’s about seeing that hidden beauty and potential in something. Even if it’s just an old broom head or a broken hanging basket or whatever it has the potential to be something fantastic. Just going for a walk around the city or through the park can inspire me. Even the music I am listening to. I find that music can be so inspiring because it can change the way I’m feeling in an instant. I love just sitting down with all the things I have collected, putting in my earphones with some music and letting my imagination do all the work.

TSF: How long does each headpiece take to make? 
Mr. L: It really depends on what types of material I have found to work with. I prefer working with hard material, things like wire or metal mainly because they are more malleable and you can just be so much more unconventional with those sorts of material. Your options, for what to make, are almost limitless and you can change and reuse things much easier than if you are working with fabrics. I guess it could take up to 6 or 7 hours to get the basic concept of a headpiece together then another hour or two fixing the details. But it varies from piece to piece. I don’t usually count the time and I never do it all in one day, just as and when I feel like it.

TSF: I know you don’t study fashion, which I find amazing. Are you self-taught? How did you get into designing? 
Mr. L: I guess I am self-taught. I’ve never studied any sort of fashion. I come from Paraguay and grew up there. It’s a beautiful country but most people there are quite conservative and so most people dress the same way; quite boring! Ever since I was young I just loved standing out from the crowd and being different. When I was a kid in Paraguay this was easy. I started wearing odd socks, making holes in my jeans and dying my hair; little things like that. When I moved to London it was so different; everyone had odd socks and holes in their jeans! It was like I had to try harder to stand out, but I also got inspired by the city, the people and the street style. London is so inspirational, a place where so many different things just clash and mix together. So once I was here I just started designing things for myself from different things I found and saw around the city. I guess that’s when I really got into designing.

TSF: Who are your favourite fashion designers and why? 
Mr. L: My favourite fashion designers are Alexander McQueen, Philip Treacy and my friend Magda Durka. I love Alexander McQueen for his lack of inhibition and willingness to take risks. His work is just outstanding. You can see so much creativity and beauty in every one of his designs. For me he is the god of fashion. Philip Treacy’s headpieces are incredible. I find it amazing how he creates perfection in every single piece and gets that harmony between outlandishness and beauty just spot on every time. You can see so much passion in his work. Magda Durka was such a big influence on me when I first came to London. She taught me not to care what people thought and to feel free to express myself. I love her style and passion for colours in her designs.

TSF: Do you plan to start your own label? 
Mr.L: It would be a dream come true but financially I can’t at the moment. It’s always in the back of my mind for one day in the future though. At the moment I’m just enjoying designing things for myself.

TSF: How would you describe your creativity in 3 words? 
Mr. L: I would have to say escapist, experimental and fun. 

If you would like to see more of Leroni’s design journey, make sure to follow him on Instagram and Twitter.

Wirtten by Tskenya-Sarah Fraser
photographs by Austėja Ščiavinskaitė.

20 February, 2015

DASH Magazine SS15 Launch Party

If you love both fashion and illustration equally then you really need to subscribe to Dash Magazine. Members of Fashion Philosophy Team were invited to SS15 issue Launch Party this very night. The celebration for the newest issue, Saturation, took place at London's Display Gallery at Holborn Viaduct. Thank you so much for a great night, Dash Magazine!

To see more images from the night, head over to the official Facebook album. 
The new issue is now available to buy at selected retailers. 

Words by Tskneya-Sarah Fraser,
photographs by Austėja Ščiavinskaitė.