26 January, 2015

Far Far Away // Paper Fashion

Written by Jessica Holden.

One of my favourite things to do is combine photography and illustration. When I saw these photograph/illustrations on Katie Rodgers website Paper Fashion, I just thought they where the most beautiful things. They have a dreamlike quality about them, half in reality and half not. I think every element of them is so lovely the fashion, the backdrops, the photography are all very inspiring. I think it also shows what magic can happen through collaborating with other people on projects, each person has brought their own skills and talents to create something magnificent.

Illustrations - Katie Rodgers  of Paper Fashion // Photography - Daniel Castro // Styling - Kelly Framel // Make- up - Misha Shahzada // Hair - Joseph Dimaggio // Set stylist - Stockton Hall

Week #4 Inspirations

Model Andrea Diaconu in a street style editorial focusing on Spring'15 collections and trends. Photographed by Benny Horne, published in a February 2015 issue of Vogue Spain

Model Emily DiDonato in a beauty editorial photographed by Cuneyt Akeroglu for February 2015 issue of Vogue Paris

Actress Chloe Grace Moretz in Spring'15 campaign for Coach Dreamers.

Images source: Fashion Gone Rogue site.

25 January, 2015

Dunhill AW'15

Picture the time: it’s the late Fifties, early Sixties, where the likes of David Hockney, Francis Bacon, Lucian Freud and Harry Diamond embodied art and photography. An influential period; these names were responsible for evoking the artistic vibrancy, and charismatic spirit, of Soho. Since then, they have continued to inspire creative Londoners.

Case in point was the work of John Ray, creative director, of the London label Dunhill AW15 collection. The show took place during London Collections: Men, in the new Phillips gallery. A location known for currently displaying several reputable paintings by Bacon.

Following this, the Dunhill fall line is said to reflect colours of leftover paint found in Bacon’s studio: tones of yellow, orange and blue, along with a mix of white, red, rose and mauve.

The style emitted a relaxed tailoring and somewhat generous cut, offering the ease of movement. Always a likeable factor where menswear’s concerned. Once again, depicting a fifties throwback, with the presence of on trend painter’s trousers, car coats and knitwear.

As if this collection wasn’t likeable enough, Dunhill went on to feature exclusive fabrics produced within British mills. A nod to our classic culture was brought in the style of menswear patterns such as herringbones and twills woven double-face with checks. Oversized pinstripes were also seen, and Scottish tweeds brought to life in playful colours.

All in all, I found myself to be extremely fond of this collection. What a delight to see such a sophisticated and undoubtedly dapper collection that honours our heritage so well. 

Written by Lucy Cox;
Image source: style.com // photographed by Yannis Vlamos.

Coach AW'15

Shearling. Seductive. Stand out star. Just a few choice phrases used to describe the new direction of former Mulberry designer, Stuart Vevers, and the Coach fall line. Debuting its first full ready-to-wear collection for men, the show was held at the old Central Saint Martin’s College in London. The all-American brand was said to be one of the highlights on Friday during LC:M.

Renowned for its womenswear, Vevers appeared to follow the successful elements of previous female staples in the creation of this Coach collection. The result: sizeable shearling coats (a definitive trend that emerged across the board of menswear for the forthcoming season), bomber jackets and hiker boots. All of which endeavoured a masculine, yet American luxury, edge.

Outwear pieces featured bulkier cuts and darker colours. Peacoats and parkas were married with accents of leather, leopard lining and prominent prints. Knitwear was showcased in basic tones, and – of course – there were outstanding jackets in Coach’s signature classic brown calfskin leather.

At first glance, I was unimpressed with this collection. I thought it lacked imagination, was played somewhat safe and found myself looking for more. However, on closer inspection, one can see that what Vevers has created is superb simplicity, and not airing on the side of caution at all.

There are no tricks, no new-fangled trends, nor any viewpoints being shouted from the depths of every stitch and seam. Reflection shows that what I originally deemed basic, is rather more an offering of functional winter street style. Plain, with a pleasingly classic aesthetic attached to the side. Based on a New Yorker’s love for practicality, this collection should be recognised for pairing a straightforward, softly spoken, ‘no mess’ kind of vision, with honest construction.

We await and see what the future holds for further collections. 

Written by Lucy Cox;
Image source: style.com // courtesy of Coach.

24 January, 2015

Opening Ceremony AW'15

Opening Ceremony by Carol Lim and Humberto Leon triumphs again with their reminiscent fall collection. The collection is for every fashion lover who has been craving for a perfectly executed milleu of 90’s retro style with a modernist twist.

Lim and Leon take inspiration from analogue cameras for part the collection, as Kodak is so boldly printed on two of their jumpers. But this vision transcends itself into the silhouette and selective cut of the jumpers as they trigger the actual visualisation of a camera lens. The sharp cut of the square boxes are picture perfect, showing the great thought, precision and intentionality that Opening Ceremony put into their garments.
The statement prints are also something to commend. We are reminded of early 90’s patterning where Aztec, picture mixing and stripes were rife elements to street style. There is deliberate effort to make the collection look casual, even in the frame of suits.  The casual aspects of Lim and Leon’s collection act as anarchic tributes to youthfulness, new and innovative ways of styling yourself. Having a suit set in one print is rebellion against the norm of professionalism, challenging the boundaries of traditional work settings. 

The whole collection begs its viewers to analyse themselves through a unique lens that pushes the boundaries, Lim and Leon give us the chance to push past the limitations of casual styling.

Written by Tskenya-Sarah Fraser;
Image source: style.com // courtesy of Opening Ceremony.

Christopher Shannon AW'15

One man’s trash is another’s treasure. Or fashion it seems. Liverpudlian designer Christopher Shannon showcased his AW15 collection with an interesting presentation at London Collections: Men.

True to his form, Shannon displayed his usual sportswear codes as the hottest looks in menswear for next season. This was conjoined with 80s throwback with geometric colour blocking, puffer jackets with elasticated corsets and cinched-in waists, brilliant shredded popper suits and pinstriped peplum accents teamed with slim tracksuit bottoms.

The former Central Saint Martin’s student, whose career with menswear began in 2008, also sent many male models down the catwalk with their faces covered in corner shop carrier bags. Judy Blame, the show’s co-stylist, also fashioned this unlikely mask material into interesting jewellery and neck ties. Sombre slogans such as ‘Thanks 4 Nothing’, ‘Broke’ and ‘Save Me’ emblazoned statement knitted jumpers.

Once again, this designer has kicked the vision of British menswear and its legacy of fine tailoring up a gear, through his showcase of creatively modern garments. In the case of his AW collection, he has wittily drawn on the reality young designer’s face, with a nod to the financial strain of running a label.

All in all, the show was not only recognition of how fantastic the designs of House of Shannon are capable of creating, but was also a wake-up call. An honest and relevant message conveyed in a time where designers are struggling to fund not only the construction of shows, but the production of their collections.

With his experimental point of view once again in tow, this collection was another marriage of British street culture and wearable men’s designs from the London talent. 

Written by Lucy Cox;
Image source: style.com // photographed by Yannis Vlamos.

Christopher Kane AW'15

Geometric shapes and symmetry is everything in the Christopher Kane fall collection, as the shapes help give a styling outlet to the ‘geek’ panache. Providing garments that can both easily fit into to street style and work brackets. 

“I love detail, especially some sort of embellishment that can transform a garment instantly. It’s always good to move out of your comfort zone each season, to learn new things and to challenge your senses.” – Christopher Kane 

Kane uses geometry to transform other wise boring outfits into fun and challenging ensembles. Challenging in the sense that the mind has to work hard to register the structure of the shapes created. 

All of the Christopher Kane’s trousers for this collection are cut to sit just above the ankle to help illuminate his theme of preppy stylish bookworm. It is this attention to detail that makes Kane’s collection so successful, destroying all previous conceptions of the ‘geek’. 
 Written by Tskenya-Sarah Fraser;
Image source: style.com // courtesy of Christopher Kane.